Ateliers
In a fashion house, the work is divided between two different types of ateliers: the “flou” and the “tailleur”.
In a fashion house, the work is divided between two different types of ateliers: the “flou” and the “tailleur”. The former is dedicated to the craft of making dresses using soft fabrics, whereas the latter focusses on the more “structured” outfits, which require a different technique.
Each atelier is managed by a “head” who coordinates a team of artisans, called “hands”, themselves divided according to their qualifications: “first qualified hand”, “second hand” or “apprentice”.
Currently the house of Dior has two Haute Couture ateliers, one for “flou” pieces and one for “tailleur” pieces, each of which employs around thirty people. This number increases during the collection period.
The work of the atelier started when it received Christian Dior’s sketches. He sometimes sent a same sketch to several ateliers, to obtain different interpretations and retain the one that was closest to his original idea.
The first stage is the creation of a “toile”, which is a three-dimensional interpretation of the sketch. It is usually made from a simple cotton canvas, although it has to correspond as closely as possible to the final result.
The toiles must be approved by the Artistic Director before the garment can be made in its fabric. The presentation of the toile is a decisive stage, which determines the future design of the garment.
“The studio is once again a hive of life and the great day approaches when the first toiles are to be shown. Of course Mme Marguerite turns faint at the idea of showing them to me, and the premières are terrified that they have made some awful mistake. Even I myself begin to wonder what these dream-children of mine will really look like when I am actually confronted with them.” Christian Dior
“What follows next is a solemn moment for us all. The first toiles generally number about sixty, and they consist of reproductions of the most significant of the ‘petites gravures’; those which I have asked to see at once. Now at last I do see them!” Christian Dior
If the toile is approved, it is then used as a pattern to make the garment with the chosen fabric.
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